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製作地方味:南投松柏坑茶區烏龍茶商品標準的知識建構及其變遷
Thesis

製作地方味:南投松柏坑茶區烏龍茶商品標準的知識建構及其變遷

翁俊發
Masters, 國立清華大學, 人類學研究所
2005

Abstract

松柏坑茶區 製茶工序 感官知識
The main thesis of this dissertation is to construct the process of commodity standard of Oonlong tea in Nantou MingJien tea district.By my field work in MingJian tea area during April-July 2005. By noticing a significant phonemenon of emphasizing "mountain flavor" during past Taiwan tea market, my research aim to constructin the making crafts to resolve a question: why the tea district is lying low during past thirty years? I found it's tightly related to the changing sense standard and we must entering the produing process to resolve it. First,during the tea-making process,the core techniques concluding realizing the materiality of tea,controlling the uncertainty in the working place,so the unspeakable tacit knowledge is esepecially emphesised.Second, in this kind of making process,the commodity character of diversity is established. Flavour and taste variated between tea districts is emphasized as a symbol using to sell in the tea market.Among different tea districts,the sensed standard is constructed by local knowledge formed by constantly produing and consuming.In MingJien tea district,the old taste was symbolize as "tradition",and the new taste was marked as the market taste. However,the rhetoric of market taste controlling by the tea merchant is now descotructing the tea making craft in Ming-Jien tea district.The result of over-emphesising the elevation will erasing the distinguishing character of tradition tea district.

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